While her name is known the world over, and her brand remains one of the most coveted in luxury wear, year after year, not everyone knows the kind of divisive, at times downright problematic and extremely driven woman Gabrielle Chanel was. Now a fashion exhibition at the V&A sheds light on it all, no holds barred.
Many years ago, in Florence, I met Olivier Saillard, the artistic director of the Gabrielle Chanel exhibition in Paris, and also at the time the director of the Palais Galliera. His passion for fashion and his insight — complete with stories of dandies who sewed little stories in their clothes and other anecdotes — created in me an even bigger need to read everything and watch it all when it comes to style and elegance.
Probably one of the biggest, if not the biggest icon when it comes to fashion is Gabrielle Chanel, or known simply as Coco. The designer, and all around fashionista, was born in France in the late years of the 19th century in a poor family. She was raised in part in a convent and yet her style and simple elegance have revolutionized womenswear and how we carry ourselves even today.
As of September 16th, visitors to London’s Victoria and Albert Museum will be able to walk through a comprehensive exhibition which is dedicated to Mademoiselle Chanel, titled ‘Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto’. The extensive exhibit sheds light on her life, which at times could be seen as problematic because of her unorthodox choices, as well as showcases her creations, from the very start to her late years. But the thing to remember, before passing judgement on Coco Chanel for her choices, is that she was a woman ahead of her times, a visionary who viewed elegance as the most important quality in life. And elegance often came at a cost in those years.
Gabrielle Chanel, Hat, silk. 1917 © CHANEL Photo Nicholas Alan Cope
Starting in 1909 Chanel opened her first milliner workshop in Paris, as well as three boutiques — in Paris in 1910, in Deauville in 1912 and in Biarritz in 1915. Her hat, on display in the exhibition, is something to behold as the delicate yet cool creation collapses easily to fit inside a bag or a suitcase.
Her early years are tied to the UK as she was involved with the Duke of Westminster and spent weeks on his Scottish estate, where she met Winston Churchill. This was a connection that got her in trouble during the WWII years, as she was asked by the Germans to spy on the English. No, no Mademoiselle, bad, bad Mademoiselle. The V&A exhibition seems to be a bit heavy handed in pointing this out, but we must remember that in those years France was occupied by the Germans and she also selfishly must have wanted them to make peace with the British government in order to stay in business. Yet it remains important to confront that part of the history of Chanel, which is not easy. And kudos to the brand and the woman who survived throughout it.
Marie-Hélène Arnaud in a tweed suit from Chanel’s AutumnWinter 1959 collection and Chanel shoes, carrying the 2.55 Chanel handbag © CHANEL
Throughout the 30’s Chanel worked in the movies, most importantly collaborated with Samuel Goldwyn with whom she signed a $1Million deal to make costumes for his films.
Other landmarks for Chanel included the launch of her first perfume, Chanel No. 5 on May 5th, 1921 (named after the auspicious date). Marilyn Monroe famously answered, to the question of what she wore to bed “only Chanel No. 5” and the rest is fragrance history. A shrewd businesswoman as well as a fantastic fashionista, Mademoiselle Chanel worked on the licensing of her perfumes, or rather had the Wertheimer family, which owned the Bourjois cosmetics company, invest in the venture.
Marilyn Monroe applying Chanel N°5, photograph by Ed Feingersh, 1955, New York. © Ed FeingershMichael Ochs ArchivesGetty Images
When she tried to walk away from her work — I speak from personal experience but it is incredibly hard to be a woman and run your own venture, with creeps and cheats at every corner — she was soon brought back by a silly comment, made by a man, of course. “One night at dinner Christian Dior said a woman could never be a great couturier,” she admitted to Life magazine, and she wasn’t going to let Dior have the last word.
For the rest of the goodies, you’ll have to visit the exhibition yourself.
I’ll just leave you with a few words, to remember that Chanel’s fashion philosophy isn’t so hard to achieve, even on a budget. All you’ll need to do is wear your watch over your sleeve, or mix white lace anything with black bouclé. And last but not least, put on long pearls, or a long golden chunky necklace with your blue jeans and a crisp, white shirt. And a splash of perfume of course, No. 19 if possible as it was the last scent Chanel herself created, named after the date of her August birthday. Voilà — you’re doing it Coco’s way!
All images courtesy of the V&A, used with permission.